Despite the easy access to recipes online, I do have a treasured collection of cookbooks. I have one set, that sits solemnly together, like a COVEN of scholars interested in Mediterranean studies, debating, for example, the merits of various versions of artichokes cooked in the Roman style. Another group close by on the SHELF are the locals, Hoosier cooking at its finest. Then there are the vegetarians, pushing meats into EXILE. Nearby companions EXULT in the grain and the grape, with essays about wine and histories of cocktails. Then there are my beloved Indian cookbooks: they EXALT the variety and complexities of curry, biryani, pulao and paneer. These are delightful old friends. With their notes and stains, their menus and post-it notes — a record of daily meals, feasts, and community.

Georg’ann